Bonnes Mares Grand Cru, domaine Arlaud 2021 (Uniquement disponible en Coffret Collection)

The 2021 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is the last poured by Cyprien Arlaud, though curiously, atypically for this cuvée, aromatically, it is a bit obdurate at first on the nose, eventually revealing mineral-laden red berry fruit reminiscent of Roumier (Christophe). The palate is very well balanced, not powerful but surfeit with finesse and adorned with symmetry and poise. Seamlessly integrated oak with a long finish conveying the terroir to the max. Awesome. Three (and a quarter) barrels.

From a parcel right in the middle of this site, with rows running from the top to the bottom of the slope, the 2021 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has been farmed for 20 years by horse. Mingling aromas of red berries and cherries with hints of rose petal, bergamot and smoke, it's full-bodied, ample and perfumed, with a seamless, complete profile and a long, saline finish.

Notes de violette et de myrtilles au nez du Bonnes-Mares, un vin onctueux et frais, très finement cacaoté, qui cache derrière sa délicatesse de texture une profondeur de saveurs assez corsée : patience de 8 à 10 ans requise.

Here too there is enough reduction to mask the underlying fruit, though not the floral and spice wisps. The richer and slightly more imposing medium-bodied flavors are not quite as refined or seductive though they do flash impressively power on the dusty, firmly austere, compact and built-to-age finale.